A Study on the Combinative Patterns of Lapel and Collar in Tailored Jackets with Different Break Line

Abstract

This study looks into the changes in collar patterns in tailored jackets with different numbers of buttons. The study discusses the pattern design method of tailored colors in 4 different styles, such as the effect of the number of buttons of tailored jackets on collar width and length, lapel width and length, and angle of lapel and overall balance in design. Through the first dress experiment, patterns were adjusted and corrected. The second dress experiment was conducted with the modified experimental clothes. The results of comparison and analysis are as follows. The 1 button tailored jacket was most preferred for its beautiful expression and overall balance of upper color and lapel when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The second most preferred one was the 2 button tailored jacket with lapel width of 8 cm, and the 3 button jacket showed relatively good balance when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The 4 button tailored jacket showed a bad balance in collar and button. Also, its overall silhouette was disappointing and thus was less preferred than others. For smaller number of buttons, the angle of lapel's break line increased, thus displaying a more refined and slim silhouette. On the other hand, the angle of lapel's break line decreased for greater number of buttons, thus displaying a dull and fat image. As a result, the jacket with many buttons was less preferred.

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