A study on the sleeve angles and gusset for the improvement of movability in a basic Kimono sleeve - Focusing on the standard body type in their thirties -

Abstract

This study aims to conduct a investigation on the gusset of a Kimono sleeve to achieve excellent movability through an evaluation of its fit wearing by conducting comparative research in terms of the length of the gusset pattern according to sleeve angle, which having a great effect on the wearing and activity of the top of a Kimono sleeve. A prototype was manufactured by developing the basic Kimono sleeve based on the method of Ernestine Kopp's basic bodice pattern. The sleeve angles which was applied to the prototype pattern of the Kimono sleeve ware approximately $50^{\circ}$ , $70^{\circ}$ and the gusset was diamond-shaped which has a width of 10cm and lengths of 9cm, 10cm and 11cm. As a result, in the case of $55^{\circ}$ of the sleeve angle, the angle was gradually increased as the length of gusset was extended, although, in the case of $68^{\circ}$ of the sleeve angle, there was not remarkable effects between increased gusset length and the value of the angle. This result could be analyzed that the gusset did not affect remarkably since the sufficient movability was gained with only the angle in the case of $68^{\circ}$ . Also, in the results of experiment on $55^{\circ}$ angle, as 9cm, 10cm and 11cm of length of gusset commonly indicated over $70^{\circ}$ in average, it was found that the movability was obtained sufficiently in every part.

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