Colors Compared: Matisse and Picasso with Chanel and Vionnet

Abstract

The objective of this research was to test the relationship between the fine arts and couture clothing in respect to color. The researchers compared the chromatic and achromatic hues used by the painters Matisse and Picasso with those used by the couturières Chanel and Vionnet, emphasizing the years 1918 through 1929. Using the Munsell color system as a framework, the researchers described the colors in eight paintings and 14 dresses in six collections. The researchers also made color counts in American Vogue for every year from 1918 through 1929, concentrating on the outerwear of Chanel and Vionnet. Colors were compared and contrasted for the painters and designers from 1918‐1924. Other compari sons were garments in fashion copy of 1918‐1924 with actual garments plus copy of 1925‐1929; and colors in paintings of 1918‐1924 with colors in dresses and copy, 1925‐1929. The researchers also reviewed literature for indications of painters' and designers' stated views on color and for their professional contacts with each other. Yellow red was the Munsell hue group much used by all four people across the span of the research. Overall, the designers favored the use of black and white, which were rarely found in the paintings. Blue was important to Picasso, Chanel, and Vionnet in 1918‐1924; both designers continued its use in 1925–1929.

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