Identification of selected vegetable textile fibres

Debra J. Carr · Natasha Cruthers · Catherine A. Smith · Tom Myers

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Cultural Heritage Materials Analysis Dyeing and Modifying Textile Fibers Conservation Techniques and Studies

Abstract

This article reviews the literature on the identification of vegetable textile fibres [1], more commonly known as plant or cellulose fibres. Identification of such fibres can have important implications (authentication, cultural information, development of treatment protocols) in numerous conservation specialisations, including ethnographic objects, textiles, paper and easel paintings. The fibres discussed in this article are those that The Textile Institute (Manchester, UK) defines as being vegetable fibres; cotton, kapok, coir, flax, hemp, jute, kenaf, ramie, abacá (manilla), henequen, New Zealand flax and sisal [1]. The methods described include those that require only simple equipment, as well as methods that are more sophisticated, needing complex scientific instruments and trained personnel. The advantages and disadvantages of the methods are discussed. General and specific diagnostic features for each of the fibres are provided (Table 1).

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References

1974Journal of Archaeological Science 2003Identification of Cellulosic Fibres by FTIR Spectroscopy - Thread and Single Fibre Analysis by Attenuated Total Reflectance 2007A Decade of Raman Spectroscopy in Art and Archaeology 1997FT Raman microscopy of untreated natural plant fibres 2004Raman microscopy in archaeological science 2000Chemical Principles of Textile Conservation 1999Forensic Examination of Fibres 2001Archaeological Textiles: A Review of Current Research

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2020Is Cross‐Section Shape a Distinct Feature in Plant Fibre Identification?2019A combination of analytical methods to evaluate the effect of humidity aging on the painting materials of icon models 2021Characterization of Korean handmade papers collected in a Hanji reference book 2024Identifying plant fibres in cultural heritage with optical and electron microscopy: how to present results and avoid pitfalls 2017Polarized Light Microscopy: An Old Technique Casts New Light on Māori Textile Plants

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