The Relationship of the Body Surface Development Figure with the Sleeve Basic Pattern in the Standing and Arm-Movement Positions

Abstract

The suitability of the pattern manufactured with the development figure was considered by reviewing the development conditions that can be directly connected to the basic pattern in the human body surface development figure with the cast bandage method. The method to prepare the sleeve basic pattern was based on the cylindrical surface development method, and the sleeve basic pattern covering the 45 and 90 degrees momentum of the arm-movement was made by using the cast-type body surface development figure prepared with the horizontal line of the sleeve hem placed horizontally in the plan and by combining the cast-type body surface development figure in the standing position with the figure in the moving position. The test clothing was prepared with the sleeve pattern adding the bodice pattern in the standing position and the momentum and was worn on the FRP replica. The relationship theory of the body surface development figure with the pattern was derived by reviewing the suitability from the wearing state. The sleeve-cap height of the sleeve basic pattern resulted in about 80% in the standing position when the needs for a physical activity are 45 degrees and the about 50% when the needs for a physical activity are 90 degrees. The additional size of the diagonal length of the sleeve-cap could be set as "0" if the sleeve-cap height is low by 50% and as 50% of the additional size in the standing position if the sleeve-cap height is 80%.

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