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This article examines cultural production and social relations in the making of costume for commercial Hindi cinema, focusing in particular upon costume (“dress”) designers and tailors. Dress designers see themselves as the creative force in costume production, regarding tailors who stitch the costumes as mere technicians. In fact, interviews with tailors reveal that they regard their own contributions as both creative and essential. With the rise in fashion markets and media industries in India, the dress designer is ever more important as an “gimage consultant” who can consolidate a star's positioning in the worlds of both film and fashion. At the same time, the paternalistic connection between tailors and their clients, wherein customers–including film stars–go to a personal tailor to have their clothes made‐to‐measure, endures. In converting the designer's conception into a costume, the tailor claims a degree of inventiveness and creativity that is separate from the designer's. At the same time, tailors see themselves providing a necessary and personal service to the star. The tailor, a largely anonymous figure in western film designing and costuming, remains a key figure in Indian film costume.
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