Saints and Snakes: Death, Fertility, and Healing in Modern and Ancient Greece and Italy

Abstract

In the modern village of Markopoulo on the island of Kephallonia in Greece, a strange migratory phenomenon occurs annually in the period 6-15 August when small, harmless snakes invade the local church dedicated to the Panagia (Virgin Mary). The snakes are said to appear on 6 August and disappear after the Dormition festival dedicated to the Panagia, which is celebrated on 15 August. They are thought to be healing, and several pilgrims come to be touched by the snakes, particularly on the eve of 15 August. In the Italian village of Cocullo, situated in the Abruzzi in the territory of the ancient Marsi, who were renowned for their magic arts and power over serpents, we meet a similar phenomenon: The Feast of Serpents in Cocullo is celebrated on the first Thursday in May. It is dedicated to Saint Domenico, patron saint of the village, who is credited with miraculous powers of healing, and pilgrims arrive at Cocullo to be cured on the Feast of Saint Domenico. In both villages, the snakes that are related to the dead protectors are also thought to signify good luck

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