Study on the 'Round Collar Po(袍類)' Illustrations of 『Akhak-gwebeom(樂學軌範)』

Abstract

The subject of study is about the illustrations of the round collar Po(袍類) in the Akhak-gwebeom(樂學軌範) which was published in 1493. These illustrations are painted records of what musicians and dancers in the palace were wearing during performances. While each illustration of the Po is similar in that they all have round collars, each has a different name Sam(衫), Ui(衣), Dallyeong(團領) and formative characteristics, and these features were analyze in the study. Sam refers to the Gongbok(公服) as it has long and big sized sleeves, Ui is the word used to represent the basic unit of outerwear, and Dallyeong is believed to refer to the Sibok(時服) and Sangbok(常服). In the formative aspects, Sam's auxiliary sleeve is one of the ways wearing the sleeve of innerwear shown outward and it's assumed to have been produced for visually matching the formal look as well as the convenience free to use of hands. The Mu of Dan-ui(丹衣) is less than the number of the excavated artifacts, it produced in a relatively simplified form. Also, illustration of Dallyeong corresponds to the artifacts and configuration of the 15th to 16th centuries, the costume culture of that time seems to be reflected specifically. While Hyungbae(胸背) used in the form of rectangles and circles such as petals. it tried to represent the country at the official event by borrowing the upper class in the costume that musicians and dancers wear, also showed the rank and social status symbolically by having the differences in the shape and pattern. While the costume culture at the time is reflected, it can be found that the objective of raising the country's dignity is implied by transforming the detailed structure for the practicality, borrowing the costume elements of the high social status and transformed them.

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