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In keeping with issues examined by Neil Fligstein, the change-around in the market for Burgundy wines to the detriment of the Beaune wine merchants was at first clearly political in origin: the mass unionization of vineyard owners and the political control exerted by parliamentarian owners after the republicanization of the countryside enabled them to take advantage of republican ideology when reshaping the legal framework of the market, although the change had been initiated by the wine merchants. The 1919 statute on denominations of origin and its application attributed the surplus value to the vineyard owners and not to the wine merchants’ brands. But this political move alone cannot explain the victory won by the vineyard owners of Nuits-Saint-Georges and Meursault. They subsequently managed to impose an image of a traditional wine tightly bound to the place of origin. This is where the cultural sphere became involved, integrating the complex work of bringing together the regionalist revival, the invention of traditions, and the promotion of the small vineyard owner as an emblematic figure of the Republic. Burgundy wine, together with all the value enhancement of the food economy through tradition, is therefore both a political and a cultural construction.
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