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The paper analysis the industrial production of copies of Javanese batik textiles in Europe, in the first half of the 19th century (1813-1840). The production was initiated by Th.S. Raffles who, as the Lieutenant-Governor of Java (1811-1816), in 1813 sent to the Directors of the East India Company in London samples of Javanese batiks with a request to produce in UK their copies and export them to Java. The fabrics arrived in Batavia (Jakarta) in 1814, initiating a century of highly profitable European textile trade to Indonesia. During the ensuing three decades the most notable producers of industrial copies of Javanese batiks were Great Britain, Belgium and The Netherlands, with each of these countries trying to monopolise the Javanese market. In the same period France and Switzerland abstained from the mass-production of copies of Javanese batiks but instead developed a highly specialised and profitable production of Turkish-red sarongs. The successful production of Javanese batiks required an access to original fabrics. The paper presents the efforts of Carlos Forel Koechlin, a trader from Alsace, who during the years 1828-1829 visited Southeast Asia and returned with a significant collection of Indonesian textiles which is probably the oldest dated group of these textiles in Europe (nowadays in the Museum of Printed Textiles in Mulhouse, France)
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