Precious cut: exploring creative pattern cutting and draping for zero-waste design

Abstract

The purpose of this practice-based study was to introduce and test within zero-waste framework the application of Transformational Reconstruction (TR), which is an innovative pattern-making technique. Contemporary methods of fashion construction create a wate of 15% of the total fabric, leaving a ‘significant ecological footprint’. Without changing the basic silhouette of contemporary women’s day wear, three garments were designed and constructed with different zero-waste methods (one jigsaw and two TR) to reduce or eliminate fabric waste from the cutting process of creating garments as well as achieving figure flattering fit. From these experimentations, it was evident that utilization of TR toward zero-waste resulted in more fitted garments. In addition, in this innovative technique, the pattern cutting process was integrated into the design progression, which enabled the designer to think in three-dimensional rather than two-dimensional space. Hence, unlike the traditional zero-waste practices, the final look of the garment was often predictable with minor changes.

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