Study of Women’s Jangsam in the Joseon Dynasty

Abstract

In this study we consider the literature study and excavated relics concerning the Jangsam, an important female robe in the Joseon dynasty and how it succeeded to our own costume tradition. We also check the case of wearing, and to define the various names by which the robes are recognized. Jangsam was identified as the Daesu, Baeja, Bonguk Mongdueui, and Haleui, etc. Daesu, also called the Bonguk Jangsam, was a high-class garments, enough to be defined as the mourning robe of a female officer under the queen. Additionally, the Jangsam was also called as Bonjo Myeongbok and worn as a ceremonial robe of the queen with the Paeoks. The double-layered Jangsam with the Hyungbaes was only worn by the queen and crown princess. The double-layered robe without the Hyungbaes was worn by the queen to other ladies. The Baeja, mourning robe of a female officer under the six high officer, that is, Bonguk Mongdueui, was called the Jangsam, and its morphological feature is characterized by daegum with a sheer adjust, unlike the Daesu. There is also a case where it is recorded as a Haleui, among the costumes of female officers, and worn as a Jangsam, so we can confirm that the Jangsam is recognized as an important robe. The red Jangsam of the bride is the representative wedding robe, and leads to the tradition of Hwarot continuously up to now. In addition, it was used as mourning clothes, robe for burial, etc., in funeral rites. Mongdueui was the representative clothes for female performance artists. For important royal events such as royal celebrations, royal dinners, and royal banquets, etc., female officer wore Jangsam depending on their duty and position to make the ceremony magnificent.

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