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Abstract This article explores the paradoxical nature of the state of fashion studies in France. Despite France’s long history of fostering innovative theoretical research in fashion studies and its rich cultural fashion heritage, the current state of French fashion studies lags in comparison to its Anglo-American and Northern European neighbours. The institutionalization of fashion studies is just beginning to happen in France. Currently, French fashion studies denotes an ‘umbrella’ term used to cover the range of scholars working in France on the social, cultural, political, economic and theoretical studies of garments and their systems of production, consumption and representations. This article discusses the current state of fashion research in France and attempts to map the landscape in terms of the main researchers, universities, programmes, departments, and public and private initiatives. The authors look at the hurdles and challenges that the discipline faces in France and discuss potential trajectories, areas for improvement and promising new projects.
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