Pungent Provisions: The Ramp and Appalachian Identity

Abstract

Over the past ten years, the ramp, a traditional Appalachian food, has entered elite culinary circles outside its native culinary region of Appalachia. Ramps (Allium tricoccum) are wild leeks traditionally foraged for in the spring, and are known for their pungent smell. This unique vegetable is traditionally celebrated in Appalachia through dinners and festivals that are widely attended by members of the community and more recently, outsiders. Similarly, outside the region, the ramp has been featured on fine dining menus and has been sold in farmer's markets and grocery stores for the first time across the country. This study investigates both the growing popularity of the ramp, as well as the continuing symbolic power of the ramp in representing Appalachian culture. Qualitative interviews with experts in the ramp industry, patrons of ramp festivals, and those individuals spatially removed from the Appalachian region but who remain connected to ramp cultivation and celebrations were conducted. Participant observation at ramp festivals and analysis of questions posted on a ramp- based Facebook page corroborate our interview data set. This research demonstrates the important role that the ramp plays in helping root, develop, and maintain an Appalachian sense of place.

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