A Study on the Black Dandyism of Sapeur Subculture

Abstract

Sapeur is a subculture influenced by the European dandyism in the colonial period of the Congo which is the non-western subculture that has a complex socio-cultural meaning. Until now, subculture research has been centered on the western street culture. The purpose of this study is to analyze the style of Sapeur, sartorial subculture in Congo, Africa, which has recently been attracting the attention of fashion through various media. For this purpose, documentary studies and case studies were conducted. The results of this study are as follows. Sapeur shows black dandyism in a colorful sartorial style and gentle manner, challenging national environment in civil war and hunger. In Sapeur subculture, style is life itself. The Sapeur searches for harmony throughout not only styling from western dandyism, but also grooming, attitude and meticulous attention to detail. It is important that the harmonious use of colors is the most important qualities and reflects the joy and vitality of the Africans. The ultimate goal of Sapeur is the sophistication and the elegance of dandyism. As a product of western colonialism, Sapeur embraces the outward look of western dandyism through acculturation, but it is a reinterpretation in a local style including African aesthetics. It exists in a complex cultural location between the European imperialism and post-colonialism. In addition, it is an escapist resistance and deviance to the relentless reality of Africa. This study suggests another basic data in subculture research and provides new design inspiration.

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