One-piece pattern cutting: contoured active-wear

Abstract

This practise-led design research investigates alternative pattern processes in one piece cutting for contour active wear in both low and high stretch knit fabrics. The activewear market is rapidly changing due to adoption of sportswear as part of mainstream fashion. New pattern cutting methods can be developed to enhance qualities of fit, comfort and movement rather than sole dependency on costly research and development on high-performance fabrics which are not always relevant to this expanded market. This method facilitates less seaming as well as strategic positioning of seams and fabric grainlines corresponding to body movements to optimise areas of stability and stretch. Technical design research comprised of draping, CAD, sampling processes and qualitative wear testing. A functional design response to the technical performance of fabric on the moving body brings apparel for sport and fashion into the same realm for enhanced wearer use and optimised design application.

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