Study on the Pattern Grading for Improving Apparel Fit

Abstract

The aim of this study was to improve the clothing fit by applying the measurement variations of the body parts to basic torso pattern grading. This study also examined whether the grading pattern reflecting several important measurements in addition to the basic measurements was superior in the clothing fit to the drafting pattern drawn with the basic measurements. The body types of two subjects were analyzed according to ISO and KS drop value. Subject A was a slim- waisted and busty type; subject B was an average M type. The measurement difference between the 25~29 year-old average women and each subject was applied to the grading deviation of torso pattern. The size difference between the grading pattern and drafting pattern was analyzed by overlapping them and measuring each pattern part. The shape fits of the experimental clothes made by the grading pattern and drafting pattern were evaluated by a sensory test. The overall silhouette and fit improved in the experimental clothes made by the grading pattern. The fit at neck level improved because the grading pattern lengthened the waist front length and raised the neckline. The result showed that grading reflecting the measurement variations of the body parts could be closer to the body size and improve the clothing fit. Grading with the existing average pattern was also easier than drafting newly obtained material with the basic measurements.

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