Breaking the Code: Female Cross-Dressing in Southeastern Nigeria

Abstract

The southeastern Nigerian woman, during the precolonial era, was forbidden to wear a bifurcated loincloth, as such style had been customarily reserved for the men. The rule was extended to modern clothing such as pants, shorts and trousers introduced to some parts of the region since the late 19th Century. During British colonial rule (1900–1960), the tabooed dress had found its way to some women’s wardrobes amidst harsh criticism. An investigation on the history of female cross-dressing, this article explores how and why the ancient dress code that prohibited cross-dressing was broken and how the resulting trend has been resisted or tolerated in various local contexts. Relying largely on in-depth interviews conducted in several communities in southeastern Nigeria, the article examines the dynamics behind the practice and how the sartorial change fits into certain social theories and feminist perspectives. The article reveals that the phenomenon which disrupted the order of representation caused some remarkable cultural anxiety. It also argues that the practice is indicative of the increasing gender equality in sub-Saharan Africa.

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