A Study of Ritual Costumes and Hairstyles used in the Coming-of-Age Ceremony for Royal Court Ladies in the Late Joseon Dynasty

Abstract

The ritual to change the hairstyle holds the same meaning as the coming of age ceremony. The ceremony was performed throughout three times including choga, jaega, and samga. The garment and hairstyle attuned to the ceremony formalities. Women in the royal family had 'su-siK when they were fully grown up during choga, 'gwang-sik' during Jaega, and 'keun-meo-ri (big hairstyle)' during samga. 'su-sik' is the noblest hairstyle according to social status, which is allowed to be worn only by spouse of king and prince, regardless of adult or not. During jaega, 'gwang-sik' which was 'u-yeo-meo-ri', is made by winding 'darae (wig)' around a jjok-jin-muri (bun) [Jo-jim-meo-ri]? which distinguished the hairstyle of unmarried women, who did not go through a coming of age ceremony yet. Unmarried women maintained a hairstyle which is mostly twisted into one string, but they had 'saeang-meo-ri' when they were prepared for ceremonial costumes. Also, they had 'ga-raemeo-ri' when growing further. keun-meo-ri during samga is an addition of keun-meo-ri chaebal(wig) onto u-yeo-meo-ri. Women in the royal family made geo-du-mi by adding keun-meo-ri, which is formed by twisting wig, and oimyeongbu (noble ladies) and sanggung (court ladies) added a wooden wig called u-yeo-mi. Also, yeoryeong wore ga-ri-ma. In this way, the types of hairstyles were distinguished according to hierarchy. As the coming of age ceremonial dress. Wonsam was worn. During choga. wonsam was worn as a formal dress and during jaega and samga wonsam was worn as a full dress.

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