Re-defining a decade: Marc Jacobs, Tony Viramontes and the vocabulary of 1980s fashion

Abstract

Historian James Laver described the cyclical nature of fashion as taking almost 50 years for a particular style or decade to be remembered as romantic. The 1980s are often overlooked by fashion historians as garish or vulgar, best left to the confines of history. During the global financial crisis of 2007–08, direct quotations from the 1980s and television show Dynasty (1981–89) appeared on the catwalks of major designers. An interest in the decade of greed and excess was revived in a time of economic austerity: were we dressing up to cover up our financial shortcomings? Fashion is yet again in the midst of a 1980s renaissance; however, in this time of sociopolitical uncertainty, the perspective has shifted as designers immerse themselves in the creativity and showmanship of the decade. One designer at the apex of this resurgence was Marc Jacobs in his Autumn/Winter 2018 catwalk presentation. Although not the first designer to hone in on the trend, Jacobs’ collection was a homage to 1980s popular culture and the showmanship of haute couture. One notable visual influence was the work of fashion illustrator Tony Viramontes (1956–88), whose genius captured the essence of the decade. Through analysis of the recent vogue for 1980s revivalism, alongside the ingenuity of the decade’s most energic fashion illustrator, Tony Viramontes, this article will attempt to decode Marc Jacobs’ collection for his eponymous label and consider the vocabulary of 1980s fashion as truly worthy of genuine artistic examination by fashion scholars and contemporary fashion designers.

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