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Wine is a product that makes much of place. Narratives of terroir are used to appeal to consumers’ apparent demand for wines that have an indication of provenance: a clear marker of where the grapes were grown. In this way, geographical indications are used as a proxy for the qualitative characteristics – and putative quality − of the wine. Producers may seek to construct and promote imaginaries of different places as they relate to grape and wine quality, in order to capture a place-premium. The resultant construction - what we have termed ‘fictive place’ − is thus the result of a deliberate strategy by many wine producers to secure more advantageous positions in wine markets. However, an examination of these place-making strategies in the New Zealand wine industry reveals that the process is often politically contested and economically differentiated turning in particular on the geographic scale of the wine market under consideration. In most export markets for New Zealand wine, the only places of relevance are ‘New Zealand’ and ‘Marlborough’ and these are promoted actively by larger wine producers and exporters. Yet for smaller producers with a more parochial customer base, more finely granulated places are sought. In this chapter, we examine two hypotheses regarding the scale and use of place by different forms of capital by analysing a sample of New Zealand wines and the way they are labelled. We see that places have influenced wine markets but also wine markets, in a sense, have made places.
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