Noninvasive Characterization and Quantification of Anthraquinones in Dyed Woolen Threads by Visible Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy

Clarisse Chavanne · Lore Troalen · Isabelle Bardies Fronty · Pascal Buléon · Philippe Walter

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Cultural Heritage Materials Analysis Spectroscopy and Chemometric Analyses Dyeing and Modifying Textile Fibers

Abstract

L.) have been used for millennia as red colorants in textiles, carpets, tapestries, and other objects. To understand the selection and preparation of dyestuffs in various cultures and historical periods, these dyes (mainly alizarin and purpurin) are traditionally analyzed by means of separation methods that require sampling. This contribution focuses on establishing a fast, noninvasive, and in situ analytical procedure based on visible reflectance spectroscopy for the characterization and quantification of anthraquinones in ancient wool yarns. The method was successfully applied to Coptic textiles, and the analytical results are in agreement with prior observations obtained on samples by separation techniques.

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References

2009Analytical Methods for the Characterization of Organic Dyes in Artworks and in Historical Textiles 2005The Colourful Past - Origins, Chemistry and Identification of Natural Dyestuffs 2013Identification of dyestuffs in historical textiles: Strong and weak points of a non-invasive approach 2019Analytical methods for determination of anthraquinone dyes in historical textiles: A review 2012Identification of anthraquinone markers for distinguishing Rubia species in madder-dyed textiles by HPLC 2009Comparison of extraction methods for the analysis of natural dyes in historical textiles by high-performance liquid chromatography 2003Identification of natural dyes in archeological Coptic textiles by liquid chromatography with diode array detection 2007A spectrometric and chromatographic approach to the study of ageing of madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) dyestuff on wool

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2022Bayeux Tapestry: First use of early synthetic dyes for the restoration of a masterpiece 2022Dye Identification in Mounting Textiles of Traditional Korean Paintings from the Late Joseon Dynasty 2025Heritage science applications of ambient mass spectrometry 2024Exploring elucidation of red dye mixtures on woolen historical textiles via non-destructive spectroscopic analysis and multivariate cluster analysis

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