The Marine Look as Jean Paul Gaultier’s Signature Design

Abstract

The purposes of this study are to analyze the marine look within the aesthetic characteristics of Gaultier’s fashion by examining marine-look pieces from the Jean Paul Gaultier collection and to provide information on marine-look design’s inspiration. The design characteristics of Gaultier’s marine theme were examined, focusing on the marine look exhibited between the SS 2013 and the SS 2020 fashion collections. First, the origin of Gaultier’s marine look is that the sailor shirt (marinière)-a reinterpretation of the sweater that was traditionally associated with seamen from Brittany, France-became his signature piece and is centered on the traditional French sailor look. French fashion sensibility expresses a playfulness that combines haute couture with a sense of humor. Second, the gender boundary was broken by combining male and female codes, so that the design characteristics of Gaultier’s voluptuous and decadent sailor style combined femininity with a masculine sensibility. The aesthetic characteristics of the androgynous image were expressed as “the absence and ambivalence of sex.” Third, an optical illusion focused on the physical avant-garde, employing both exposure and concealment to interact the body that was hidden by the garment by incorporating the surrealist trompe l’oeil technique into its design. This experiment showed the effects of modification and distortion on the method of dressing the body.

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