Deconstruction in Collections of Ukrainian Designers: Specific Characteristics and Ways of Interpretation

Abstract

This paper is a research of deconstructivism features in Ukrainian design within 2010 — 2021, the main artistic-compositional and expressive means of deconstruction in Ukrainian fashion are traced, the peculiarities of their interpretation and characteristic combinations of features are analyzed. The main manifestations of deconstructivism in modern Ukrainian design are systematized and generalized on the basis of visual research, using the analytical method and the method of comparative historical analysis. To highlight the specific features of fashion deconstruction in Ukraine in the general context of the phenomenon, a structural-functional method is used. An analysis of clothing collections of the last decade has proved that Ukrainian design often shows such signs of deconstructivism as operating with artistic techniques and symbols of other arts and eras, emphasizing individual elements and their combinations, deliberate exaggeration, using the principle of asymmetry in clothing constructing (asymmetry of sewing or decor), dynamic, contrast and chaotic clothing designs, departure from the classic rules of construction of clothing — moving elements, replacing them, seeming illogicality. It is argued and shown on specific examples that Ukrainian designers follow limit color and textures — natural colors for shaping, less often use accent color mix. Typical means of decoration in terms of deconstruction, such as technological imperfections, cuts, holes, unobstructed edges of products, specifics of the use of non-textile materials are illustrated. The peculiarities of deconstruction manifestations in Ukrainian clothing design and characteristic combinations of features in the work of such clothing brands as Elena Burenina, Dzhus, Ostel, Balossa, Juliya Kros, Vozianiv and others are analyzed. Scientific novelty lies in systematic research of the main features of deconstruction of Ukrainian design at the beginning of the 21st century, outlines the boundaries of the phenomenon to define in modern Ukrainian fashion. The results of the study can be used by designers to create fashion products, as well as by researchers for an in-depth study of the phenomenon of reconstruction.

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