Fraught Relations: Indonesian Modest Fashion, New York Catwalks, and the Spectacle of Travel

Abstract

Abstract This chapter examines the rise of Indonesian Muslim fashion, or “modest fashion,” and its connection to the New Yorkcatwalks. It seeks to uncover the interplay between the narratives of freedom and travel in creating the global capitalist pullfor modest fashionin Indonesia. Thus, it contributes to one of the aims of this volume to “explore the different ways in which modestyand commodification interact” (see Arnez 2023, this volume, Chap. 1 ). Contributing to studies examining political statements of designers of Islamic clothing for women, this chapter discusses the popularity of Indonesian modest fashion on the New York catwalks in the context of the Western world’s feelings of guilt towards Muslims, prompted by anti-Muslim sentiment. Displays of fashion by Indonesian designers on catwalks and the designers trotting New YorkCity were used as political statements and marketing tools. Particular attention will be paid to Indonesian designers’ engagement with the New York Fashion Week and the Couture Fashion Week, and the images of travel displayed. This article sheds light on the problematic relationship between Indonesian Muslim fashion and narratives of travel, specifically considering the highly politically contentious moment when refugees from Islamic countries were denied entry into the U.S. This created a platform for Indonesians to promote equality and stand against the racist travel ban posed upon Muslims, yet it also produced the myth that the freedom to travel is guaranteed.

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