A Study on the production of Daesujangun by Chimsonjang, Choe Onsun

Abstract

In Confucian rituals, three days after a person's passing, they are placed in a coffin, and the deceased"s family wears special attire called Seongbok(成服) for the ceremony. Men wear Hyogeon(孝巾), Choigwan(衰冠), Choiui(衰衣), and Choisang(衰裳), while women wear Daesu(大袖) and Janggun(長裙). Both men and women wear Sujil(首絰), Gyodae(絞帶), Yojil(腰紩), carry a cane, and wear shoes. The formal mourning dress for men is called Gulgunjebok(屈巾祭服), and for women it is Daesujangun(大袖長裙). Choe Onsun(崔溫順, 1937-2023) dedicated herself to restoring and reproducing Gulgunjebok and Daesujangun, which had been neglected for a considerable period. In recognition of er contributions, she was designated as a functional holder of intangible cultural property in Jeollabuk-do on November 27, 1998. The purpose of this research is to study the Daesujangun of Choe Onsun. There search was conducted inseveral stages. First, a theoretical examination of the Daesujangun during the Joseon Dynasty was conducted, utilizing historical texts such as Saryepyeonram and its revised and expanded version, Jeungbosaryepyeonram. Second, an analysis of the dimensions and schematization of the Daesujangun and the production process of cutting and sewing materials was carried out, followed by the production of the actual Daesujangun under the guidance of Choe Onsun. Third, a comparative study was conducted to identify differences between the traditional Daesujangun and the Choe Onsun's version. Further academic research is required to explore the various features of Choe Onsun"s Daesujangun in comparison to the traditional ones. This study is significant because it combines a theoretical examination of Daesujangun with practical reproduction under the guidance of Choe Onsun. The results regarding the actual construction method of Daesujangun are expected to serve as a valuable basis for advancing research on traditional clothing and promoting cultural heritage preservation, honoring Choe Onsun's lifelong dedication to making Korean clothes.

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