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Abstract: This article gives a detailed account of akhnif making. An akhnif is a woven-to-shape semi-circular man’s black hooded cloak with a characteristic “eye” design, which was worn in southern Morocco until the 1950s. It combines insights gained from ethnographic fieldwork among the Ayt Waghrda mountain dwellers of the Sirwa in the High Atlas mountain range (2002–2003), the commissioning of an akhnif in 2003 that was filmed for over 30 hours, and the study of historic objects in European and Moroccan museums. By focusing on the loom and specific weaving and finishing techniques, the article considers how this garment is closely related to others in North Africa. It also contributes to the understanding of the wider history of the Mediterranean traditions of weaving clothes to shape.
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