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Abstract This paper critically considers the circular economy in the Kenyan fashion industry context, addressing structural and geographical hierarchies and inequalities in the conceptualisation of the circular economy and its associated practices in fashion. From the perspective of fashion designers, it highlights specific geopolitical and geo-economic tensions between local cultural foundations of ‘circular’ fashion and the impact of global market forces. Focusing on dynamics relating to second-hand clothing imports and Export Processing Zones (EPZs) for garment manufacturing, we present findings from qualitative research with Kenyan fashion designers (2019–2023) demonstrating how they both inhibit circular economy development in fashion and provide opportunities for innovations through creative adaptation practices.
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