Bangkok’s changing foodscape: mob urbanism and the mob(ile) foodscape

Abstract

The streetscapes of Bangkok are teeming with a diverse array of street food practices, encompassing both formal and informal approaches. Some of these street food traditions fall under the umbrella of urban informality, including informal street vending and communal public eating. Such practices are prevalent not only in various parts of Bangkok but also across other Asian cities. They bridge gaps in urban services and offer a wide range of affordable foods and goods. However, despite their evident contributions, street food vending practices are viewed as undesirable eyesores and as disorderly and chaotic urban elements by state authorities, local elites, and the upper-middle classes. Following the military government’s crackdown on street vendors in 2016, coupled with subsequent bans and removals of street food, as well as the dual challenges posed by political shifts and the COVID-19 pandemic since 2020, Bangkok’s culinary landscape has undergone significant changes. This paper aims to illuminate recent developments in Bangkok’s foodscape, particularly focusing on the role of food in social movements, political protests, and demonstrations. It outlines the operational and organizational aspects of street food vendors’ trade, along with their political implications. Additionally, it will portray how street food has been affected by government policies, namely the “Reclaim the Pavement” campaign and the response to the COVID-19 pandemic. Since 2016, informal fieldnotes and observations have been collected during ethnographic investigations of Bangkok’s foodscape. Over time, these efforts have revealed a heightened interest in the resistances and challenges street vendors pose to state power and authority.

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