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This essay explores how artisan winemakers strategically navigate a collusion of times and temporalities – nature, commercial agrarian, progressive ephemerality, wine vintages, genealogical and historical – in attempts to improve the rent value of grapevines and the quality and profits of ensuant wines. These times and temporalities generate, and are generated within, winemakers' marketing promotions, taskscape timetables, grape-growing labourings, and commercial aspirations – and also by the natural growth or labourings of grapevines. Winemaker labourings seek to discipline the natural growth of commercial grapevines into optimally productive/timetabled growth and good quality/profitable crops. However, the 'planty agency' of commercial grapevines is foregrounded whenever a grapevine dominates a winemakers' attempts at timetabling growth. Attempts to temporally discipline grapevines are also apparent in the assertion of harvest-focused, vintage-stamped wines, which establish temporal benchmarks for the progressive ephemerality of wine where it ideally improves when properly cellared over time. Progressive ephemerality, together with strategically deployed 'genealogical' and 'historical' narratives, are frequently evident in winemakers' promotions and seek to accord historical depth, authenticity, and import to their vineyard labourings and commitment to fine wine production. All of which serves to cast wines as temporally unique and thus irreproducible in time.
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