Reevaluating Rikyū: Kaiseki and the Origins of Japanese Cuisine

Eric C. Rath

4 citations0/0 files storedJournal of Japanese Studies

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Japanese History and Culture Culinary Culture and Tourism Food, Nutrition, and Cultural Practices

Abstract

Current historiography recognizes that modern Japanese cuisine is an expression of national identity and traces its origin to tea cuisine ( kaiseki ) said to have been perfected by Sen no Rikyū (1522–91). Yet, Rikyū’s contributions to the development of kaiseki are not substantiated in the historical records. This article aims to clarify the role of Rikyū in the development of tea cuisine and to call for a broader investigation of the history of tea cuisine to consider more diffuse and diverse practices involving multiple actors over time rather than attribute foundational principles in national culture to individual genius.

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References

2004Tsukiji: The Fish Market at the Center of the World 1994The Culture of Civil War in Kyoto 2005A Companion to the Anthropology of Japan 2006Handmade culture: raku potters, patrons, and tea practitioners in Japan 2011Food and fantasy in early modern Japan 1990Tea in Japan: Essays on the History of Chanoyu 1998The Japanese Way of Tea: From Its Origins in China to Sen Rikyu

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