From Clothing Rations to Fast Fashion: Utilising Regenerated Protein Fibres to Alleviate Pressures on Mass Production

Marie Stenton · Veronika Kapsali · Richard S. Blackburn · Joseph A. Houghton

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Cultural and Historical Studies Fashion and Cultural Textiles Sustainable Supply Chain Management

Abstract

Sustainable methods of practice within the fashion and textile industry (FTI) often strive to employ a circular economy that aims to eliminate waste through the continual use of resources. Complex problems such as waste, consumption, and overproduction are heavily intertwined; the main aim of this paper is to report on research focused on re-examining the potential of food waste streams as a commercially viable and circular source of raw materials for the FTI. Herein, regenerated protein fibres (RPFs) from food production waste streams rich in protein have been chosen as the main topic of focus. RPFs have a rich and relevant history from a local manufacturing perspective during wartime and post-war clothing rationing (1941–1949) in the UK. RPFs were used to meet civilian needs for wool-based textiles as part of a wider series of ‘make do and mend’ strategies designed to manage the consumption of new textile products. However, RPFs demonstrated inferior quality in terms of durability when compared to wool-based textiles, a significant contributing factor to the consequent commercial phasing out of RPFs. In today’s take–make–waste model, the FTI landscape can be defined by speed, from slow (high-quality materials and construction, long-lasting products) to fast (seasonal, disposable, low-quality materials and construction), the latter infamous for dire environmental impacts. A key objective of this research is to review the association of quality and longevity within the context of a local and circular fashion economy in which textile quality and lifecycle analysis are holistically matched to the longevity of the textile, garment, or product to reduce waste across the supply chain.

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2018Transforming Our World: The 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development 2015A review on circular economy: the expected transition to a balanced interplay of environmental and economic systems 2020The environmental price of fast fashion 2012Fast Fashion, Sustainability, and the Ethical Appeal of Luxury Brands 2020Death by waste: Fashion and textile circular economy case 2010Eco‐clothing, consumer identity and ideology 2018The global environmental injustice of fast fashion 2016Remanufacturing for the Circular Economy: An Examination of Consumer Switching Behavior

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