A Saussurean Semiotic Study of Symbolism in Keringkam Motifs: Interpreting Sarawak Malay Embroidery Within an Islamic Cultural Framework

Abstract

Keringkam is a traditional Sarawak Malay embroidery with gold or silver wrapped threads. The embroidered motifs function as visual symbols deeply embedded in both Islamic art and local cultural identity. This study employs Ferdinand de Saussure’s semiotic theory to analyze how the motifs in keringkam operate as signs, wherein the visual forms (signifiers) correspond to culturally constructed meanings (signifieds) derived from Islamic aesthetic principles and Sarawak Malay social traditions. By examining recurring floral, vegetal, geometric, and cosmological patterns, the research demonstrates how keringkam functions as a visual language that conveys local values. Drawing on primary data collected from Sarawak embroiderers and cultural practitioners, together with secondary literature on Islamic ornamentation and Malay material culture, this study challenges conventional interpretations that regard keringkam as merely decorative. Instead, it positions keringkam motifs as symbolic expressions of faith, identity, and heritage, thereby contributing to broader scholarly discussions on Islamic textile semiotics and Malay visual culture.

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